The picture at t he right is from an announcement of new products released by CMT at
the AWFS Show last August. I have been waiting patiently for these many
months. I just had to see it.
We get "new" products all the time and that is great, but most
of
the "new" products are really "me too" products — a version of what we
already have. I am not complaining, just making an observation. That said,
this new product from CMT promises to be a new product in every sense of the
word.
Here is the other half of that AWFS release sheet. Stare at it for a minute
or two and you will see how it works. It is not totally a new idea. Hoffmann
Machine Company has been making some larger dovetail key
joining machines for years. I used to enjoy watching them be demonstrated at
these shows. The dovetail keys pull the joint together very tightly.
At least the Hoffman professional machines did. I am curious to see if this
jig can do the same.
Yikes, that is a lot of color. Elena starts her indoctrination by reading
the CMT Enlock Manual.
.
Two pages. There is a page
before with a complex exploded parts diagram, but these two pages make up
the bulk of the instructions....and that is an understatement.
While the instructions may be a bit sparse, the unit itself is a fine job of
design and manufacturing. CMT can be proud of it. Now to figure out how it
works.
Step one is to secure the device to the
workbench. There are two feet and four screws provided in the case so this
is a no-brainer.
Rather than to screw it to a
bench, we decided to try using clamps and fastening it to the extrusion of
the Festool MFT bench. It worked very well.
It is
purposely mounted on the forward edge, so long stock should be easy to clamp
without interference.
I
have a wide assortment of routers that I could use with the CMT Enlock
System. On the left is the Festool OF1010 — a honey of a small plunge router
and at right, a Porter Cable 891 - a fixed router that has micrometer
adjustment of the depth. They both had connections for use with a vacuum.
We selected the fixed
base unit. For the same reason we use this type with dovetail jigs — a
plunge router doesn't help and may even be a detriment. (Hint - what happens
when you mistakenly unplunge when still in the template — not that
we would ever have done that.)
I think the toughest part of the setup is to set the router bit depth.
"17mm" is what the instructions say we need. And in terms of router
depth, that has to be in addition to thickness of the top plate. As is always the case, the space under the top platform is in
the shadows and very dark so I am not going to be able to see this line.
What we will do is to adjust it somewhat close and expect to come back and
fine tune it.Once we get it absolutely right, I will create a spacer
block to set this depth in the future. There is a different setup required
for the other dovetail key.